I can remember one of my first evenings working with Max, back in Brooklyn, almost thirteen years ago. A customer asking him about a couple wines on the center table. Some common descriptors were offered for the first bottle (crisp, citrusy, mineral...) but after the woman inquired about the next bottle, a kind of Kermit the frog smile spread on his face, his fingers animated like he was tickling the keys of a tiny invisible piano. Playful is how he described the affordable alpine white.

After a tasting this week, I looked over Max's notes, curious about his thoughts on some wines a rep brought in for us to consider. While our palates are generally aligned, I sometimes enjoy seeing how our different impressions are expressed. Aromatic, fresh my notes might say. Herbaceous, lively Max will have written. And I can always count on some descriptor on his sheet that sums up my impression better than I had written. Usually succinct and honest and true, like Max. One wine last week - my notes said stewy, pruned, medicinal/cough syrupy, old/tired.  Max simply wrote joyless. 

And now I'm fixed on that word, joy. Obviously it's oft written and sung during this season. But Max's simple succinct scribble was a light in the fog. We see a lot of new faces this time of year, and they'll enter the shop with a sweeping glance and ask So what's your "thing" here? I've always found this question a little funny, thinking of someone walking into Ace Hardware or The Gap with a similar inquiry. But fair enough, and we'll answer something along the lines of having a carefully curated selection of dynamic bottles from small producers around the world. We might talk about classic regions, or minimal intervention winemaking, and may field questions about Biodynamics or try to find an agreed upon definition of "natural". It's all good, as we inevitably move to find agreed upon language, an understanding. But perhaps I say too much, and maybe once again have written too much. So I will follow Max's lead. I'll follow Max's nose. To put it simply, these wines are joyful. And at the end of the day, literally, these bottles can bring you joy. And others too. Spread the word, spread the cheer. Let heaven and nature sing.
 

TONIGHT... THURSDAY NIGHT FLIGHTS! Reds from Spain & Whites from Portugal. 
Flights $15 from 5-9pm and full menu of wines by the glass available too!

SATURDAY, December 17th: Phantômé Cellars Tasting with winemaker Brendan Willard. Repeat the sounding joy! Brendan returns once more, pouring his current lineup this Saturday! Flights $15 from 2-6pm and wines by the glass all day until close.


Cheers,

Daniel