I was behind bars in New York for a good part of my thirties, serving not time, but drinks, of good old ethanol. It was Manhattan, at the turn of the century, and the year 2000, followed by the fallen towers, made us all rather hopeless and confused. It was then, as it is now, hard to see the way forward, but cocktails, in the wake of the Cosmopolitan, were enjoying a resurgence in popularity, and I applied myself with focus to the craft.

The history of mixed drinks is rich and colorful, and generally acknowledged to begin with the 1862 publication of barman Jerry Thomas’ The Bon Vivant’s Companion. Bartenders who took themselves seriously were aware of the contributions of Thomas, as well as others, like Dale DeGroff, Ada Coleman, and Oakland’s own Victor ‘Trader Vic’ Bergeron. When I came to Manhattan in the late 90’s, the scene was nascent but high-quality, including Sasha Petraske’s incomparable speakeasy, Milk and Honey, where a reservation, and etiquette, were required; the hidden whiskey bar, Angels’ Share, where, having entered through an unmarked door, in the back of an upstairs restaurant near Astor Place, you could enjoy a fastidiously built drink and the coolest Jazz, and The Lansky Lounge, with it’s hidden, lower east side back alley entrance, and classic cocktails.

As the bar manager at Five Points restaurant, on Great Jones Street, I created a cocktail menu that relied on fresh juices, spices, herbs, and infused spirits. I also trained Jim Mehan, author of the PDT cocktail guide and much-touted mixologist, who got his start behind the bar at Five Points. I don’t believe I would care to drink any of the selections on that list today – one with whiskey and muddled fig jam comes clumsily to mind - but I’d like to think they helped inform some of the more creative cocktails offered today.

I eventually left the bar for the more attractive hours of retail wine sales, but I still enjoy a mixed drink from time to time, as it appears many of you do as well, and though we cannot sell the hard stuff at Oakland Yard, we do carry many Vermouths and aperitifs, some delicious on their own, over ice, like the bittersweet Cocchi Americano, or Dolin or Berto Blanc, and others that will turn your gin or whiskey into a splendid Martini, Negroni or Manhattan with a quick shake or stir. We also stock Cappelletti, an aperitif similar to Campari, a splash of which in your sparkling wine will make an irresistibly delicious Italian Spritz. As the weather warms, and nothing much else happens, please consider our many non-wine options as a way to bring a bit of the bar back home and put a little spice in your glass.

Cheers,

Max